In our experience, most people haven’t even heard of Bisbee, Arizona. It’s not one of the state’s major cities, it’s not near any of the three (!) national parks, and it doesn’t have any particularly well-known attractions.
But Bisbee’s been at the top of my road trip destinations list for years now. Ever since I discovered this hippie mountain town, which must surely be one of the most interesting places in Arizona, I knew a trip there would be an experience – and when we finally made it to Bisbee, it did not disappoint.
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Contents
Things to Know about Bisbee, Arizona
What is Bisbee, AZ?
Bisbee has graciously adopted the moniker of “Mayberry on Acid,” a name that seems to get kicked around by all sorts of funky small towns and alternative communities. But in this case, I’d say it’s more catchy than it is accurate.
From the nickname, you might think Bisbee once resembled the sleepy and conservative home of Opie and Sheriff Taylor, until all those hippies brought in their drugs and crazy ideals. But that’s not quite how the town’s story goes.
Like many of Arizona’s early settlements, Bisbee was built on mining – mostly copper, but also gold, silver, and turquoise. It was never a peaceful little Mayberry, certainly not with all the drinking, gambling, and violence that was going on.
Bisbee was also a hotbed of political activity long before any hippies showed up. In the early 20th century, hundreds of the town’s miners joined the Industrial Workers of the World union, whose decidedly socialist philosophy didn’t exactly jibe with the mine owners’ profits.
Those who joined the union met the same fate as unionizers in the fellow Arizona mining town of Jerome; they were kidnapped by mine guards, loaded onto a train, and hauled off to the deserts of New Mexico. Sheriff Taylor would not be happy…
In the latter half of the 20th century, the profitability of mining and the number of jobs available in Bisbee both took a dramatic slide. It didn’t turn into a ghost town like many of Arizona’s mining communities, but it did lose half its population. The residents who remained shifted their focus toward tourism, restoring the opulent mining barons’ hotels and setting up tours of the subterranean tunnels.
As often happens in cities in decline, artists and creative types eventually moved into Bisbee to take advantage of the lower property values and enjoy the cooler weather (Bisbee’s elevation is 5,500 feet above sea level, making it a respite from Arizona’s desert heat).
Galleries opened up, the Bisbee Royale Theater was refurbished, and artists took to the streets to create murals throughout the town. By the early ’90s, Bisbee was reestablishing itself as a thriving artsy community and quirky tourist destination.
Where is Bisbee, AZ?
Bisbee sits in Cochise County in the southeastern corner of Arizona, just north of the Mexican border and high up in the Mule Mountains. The vast majority of Bisbee’s tourists come on day trips from Tucson, which is only about an hour and a half away.
The road from Tucson to Bisbee also passes through the historic town of Tombstone, famous for the O.K. Corral shootout, Sheriff Wyatt Earp, and a certain Kurt Russell movie. After so many people in Phoenix and Tucson had told us Tombstone is a must-see destination, we decided to stop there on the way.
It’s one of the state’s biggest tourist draws, but the kitschy attractions appealing to cowboy fantasies weren’t really our cup of tea.
But once you’re on the other side of Tombstone, tall peaks come into view, and the air cools as you climb into the mountains.
Things to Do in Bisbee, AZ
We came to Bisbee without much of an agenda; it’s a place to experience rather than to tick items off a checklist. There’s not one attraction that I would say is must-visit, but taken together, it’s an amazing place to explore.
One thing to note is that, because Bisbee relies heavily on day trips from Tucson, many of the stores and restaurants close during the week (a lesson we learned the hard way!). If you can, time your visit for a weekend.
Stroll through downtown Bisbee.
Wandering around the funky downtown is one of the best things to do in Bisbee. The area is home to over a dozen art galleries, antique shops, and used bookstores, and we spent a whole afternoon looking through all of them (at least, the ones that weren’t closed mid-week when we visited). The most memorable gallery was definitely one with portraits of all the U.S. presidents, including some very accurate depictions of Trump.
Take the Queen Mine Tour.
This town’s mining roots run deep, literally! One of the most popular attractions in Bisbee is the Queen Mine Tour, led by former employees of the mining company.
The tours take hardhat-clad visitors 1,500 feet underground to see what it’s like to work in the dark and dusty subterranean world. The hour-long tours only cost $13, which seems like a pretty good deal for an adventure so far below the surface.
Gaze down into the Lavender Pit.
Back in 1950, the Phelps Dodge Corporation’s profitability was in decline; subterranean mining was costly, dangerous, and didn’t produce enough ore. Their solution? Excavate a massive open-pit copper mine just outside of Bisbee that was large enough to consume most of the adjacent town of Lowell. It took up over 300 acres worth of real estate and dug down 900 feet.
The step-sided hole looks like the remnants of some kind of ancient civilization – that is, until you notice the iridescent pool of water at the bottom and remember that it’s an environmental disaster.
Nothing shocks the system quite like an open-pit mine, and you can’t help but feel a mix of shock, horror, disgust, and amazement looking down into it. The Lavender Pit is not a pretty sight, but sometimes we need to be reminded of the environmental destruction humans are capable of.
Visit the Bisbee Mining & Historical Museum.
The Mining & Historical Museum ($8 admission) gives a more complete, if not quite as striking, picture of turn-of-the-century mining life in Bisbee. The museum’s self-guided tour is incredibly informative (it’s a Smithsonian affiliate), covering everything from labor strikes and immigration to the technological advancements in mining over the past hundred years.
One of the more jarring exhibits is the wall of brass ID tags that miners would pick up before their shift, which would then be used to identify their corpse in the event of an accident. A more uplifting display showcases high school diplomas from the first half of the 20th century, when Bisbee High School printed them on thin sheets of copper.
Wander the lost city of Lowell.
Remember that suburb that I said got swallowed up by the Lavender Pit? Lowell wasn’t completely engulfed by the pit, but the couple streets’ worth of buildings that still stand have become a ghost town. Today, most of it looks just like it did when the pit was dug in the 1950s.
Erie Street, just a few minutes’ drive from downtown Bisbee, is the main road that’s left in Lowell. Today, it’s sort of like a living museum, with vintage cars and perfectly-preserved storefronts lining its main street in a way that looks positively post-apocalyptic. Among other oddities, there’s a shuttered Harley shop and a defunct department store where you can peer through the window to see a stockpile of mannequins lounging on the floor.
The one business still operating in Lowell is Bisbee Breakfast Club, which is something of an institution. With big portions and low prices, it’s one of the best spots to get your morning meal.
Climb the Bisbee stairs.
If you want to get in a workout in Bisbee, you can skip the gym – just climb the staircases! And even if you’re not looking for a workout, climbing some stairs is pretty much inevitable.
Like many mining towns developed before the mass production of cars, Bisbee is built on a steep hillside with no roads going straight to the top. I’m guessing because horse-drawn carriages wouldn’t have been able to make the climb?
Instead, dozens of metal and concrete staircases connect the homes and businesses along Bisbee’s hillside. Where do all these stairs go? It’s something of a mystery – sometimes you’ll hit another road, other times you’ll end up in someone’s backyard.
One of the staircases starting at Brewery Gulch is covered in unusual drawings and paintings of aliens, cats, abstract nonsense, and some aesthetically displeasing portraits. Never knowing what you’ll find is part of the fun of visiting Bisbee.
Every October, the town puts on a 5K race called the Bisbee 1000. This is not your average 5K, though; most of the race takes place on those steep staircases, gaining almost 1,200 feet of elevation. You’d best have legs of steel if you want to win (or even complete!) this one.
Spot all the street art.
Bisbee is an artists’ community, and while there are plenty of great galleries to peruse, some of the town’s best works are found on the sides of buildings and in abandoned lots.
One of our favorite pieces was definitely the “Hill Car,” a 1989 Toyota painted in brilliant colors and featuring a massive portrait of Hillary Clinton on the hood. We found out later that it was created by Gretchen Baer, a Bisbee resident and founder of the “Border Bedazzlers,” a group that paints mile-long murals on the south side of the U.S.-Mexico border fence.
There’s also the FreeCycle Donation Center, housed inside the skeleton of a crumbling two-story building that serves as the largest canvas in town. While many decaying structures get covered in graffiti tags, most of this concrete facade is decorated with elaborate murals and symbols.
While it might not exactly be street art, you’ll also notice large plastic flies mounted on random buildings throughout town. They’re a call back to the fly-killing contests held around the turn of the 20th century, when flies were spreading Typhoid Fever in the area. Desperate to get rid of them, the city offered a reward to the person who could kill the most flies (the winner collected a few thousand).
But to the unknowing tourist, the sculptures just look really weird and confusing – that is to say, they fit right in.
Take a yoga class.
Given Bisbee’s artsy vibe, we figured there’d be lots of yoga classes to choose from. Our online research turned up almost nothing, but fortunately, our Airbnb host directed us toward some donation-based classes held at St. Patrick Catholic Church. It was a little bit hard to find, but it was a nice reprieve after spending so many hours in the car.
Catch a flick at the Royale.
Seeing a movie might feel like I’m scratching the bottom of the barrel for Bisbee attractions, until you see how cool this theater is! With its intimate dinner theater-style seating and beautiful turn-of-the-century architecture, the Royale has been rated as one of the best event spaces in southern Arizona. While Jen was at yoga one night, I went to a screening of Won’t You Be My Neighbor, the acclaimed Mr. Rodgers documentary.
The movie was free, and there was craft beer and high-end popcorn for sale in the lobby. Everyone there seemed to know each other, and it was pretty cool to see the whole community come together to watch everyone’s favorite cardigan-clad TV personality.
The Royale also hosts plays, concerts, educational lectures, and events, so check their Facebook page for updates.
Where to Drink in Bisbee: Bars & Breweries
Back in Bisbee’s mining days, over 50 saloons (and likely as many brothels) lined the street known as “Brewery Gulch.” Whether the mine was pulling in record profits or on its last leg, the bars of Bisbee were always booming.
St. Elmo Bar
On one of our first nights in town, we hit up St. Elmo Bar. It’s the longest operating bar in Arizona and one of the top-rated dive bars in America. In a town built on tourism, I was pleased to see there was still a place where PBR is drunk unironically and local bands take the stage every Saturday night.
Room 4 Bar
A few steps from St. Elmo is the Silver King Hotel, home to the Room 4 Bar. Reportedly Arizona’s smallest bar, it has just four stools at the bar and standing room for two. On a weekend, it can be hard to squeeze in, but seats rotate out enough that almost everyone will get their turn at the miniature counter.
Old Bisbee Brewing Company
If you’re looking for great tasting beer in town, the Old Bisbee Brewing Company is the obvious choice. It doesn’t have a lot of seating, with most of the interior taken up by massive brewing tanks, but there’s an outdoor patio where you can do some people watching on Brewery Gulch. We ducked inside during a storm and crowded around the six or so seats at the bar.
There was free popcorn, and the woman sitting next to us was a local celebrating her dog’s birthday, who seemed to be having a great time.
Where to Eat in Bisbee: Restaurants & Cafes
We cooked most of our own meals during our stay in Bisbee, but we hit up a few standout restaurants that are worth mentioning.
Contessa’s Cantina
On our first night, we had dinner at Contessa’s Cantina on the west end of town. We ordered burritos, which had quickly become our go-to meal on this trip, and ate way too many fresh tortilla chips, which were delicious. Much like at the brewery, we happened to sit next to a table with three tiny dogs, one of which was a “toodle” (poodle and Tibetan terrier mix), so that was obviously the highlight.
Bisbee Coffee Company
While wandering around the next day, we stopped at Bisbee Coffee Company for caffeine and snacks. It’s inside the Copper Queen Plaza, a cool little shopping area that’s also home to a bookstore, gift shop, and the Bisbee Table restaurant. The coffee was excellent and the cranberry scones mouthwatering.
Bisbee Breakfast Club
If there’s one can’t-miss restaurant in the area, it’s Bisbee Breakfast Club in Lowell.
This is the place to go for a big stack of pancakes and a good cup of coffee. Staying true to its surroundings on Erie Street, BBC has bright green linoleum floors and classic Formica counterparts that’ll transport you back to the 1950s. And the prices, while not stuck in the ‘50s, are still lower than many other restaurants in Bisbee.
Where to Stay in Bisbee: Hotels & Room Rentals
Bisbee is an easy day trip from Tucson, but if you want to spend more time there (which we definitely recommend!), the town has accommodations for all tastes.
Airbnb
The Bisbee area has a huge variety of Airbnb rentals, many of which really capture the town’s essence. Choose from budget-friendly rooms in a shared home, funky one-of-a-kind bungalows, 1800s-era historic houses, potentially haunted cottages, and more.
Shady Dell Vintage Trailer Court
A few minutes down the road from our Airbnb was the Shady Dell Vintage Trailer Court – but no, it’s not actually a trailer park. Shady Dell is a collection of remodeled buses and refurbished Airstream trailers available for nightly rentals. Each one is unique and furnished with appliances befitting a 1950s Route 66 vacation.
Copper Queen Hotel
For a more classic stay, there’s the Copper Queen Hotel, conveniently located at the end of Brewery Ave. In Bisbee’s mining heyday, this is where the mining companies put up visiting dignitaries and investors, but the historic hotel has also played host to the likes of John Wayne, Julia Roberts, and John McCain.
The Copper Queen is the longest continuously operated hotel in Arizona, which is readily apparent when you see the room’s Victorian furnishings and aging wallpaper patterns. The lobby has one of the classiest looking bars in town, though.
Bisbee Grand Hotel
Another classic in Bisbee is the historic Bisbee Grand Hotel. It’s just up the street from the Copper Queen, and has a similar vintage aesthetic with slightly cheaper rates.
Hotel San Ramon
A more modern option is the Hotel San Ramon, which is adjacent to the Copper Queen on Brewery Ave. While it retains a classic exterior, all the rooms have beautiful modern hardwood floors, chic bedding, and expansive views of the downtown area.
If you’re as into quirky and out-of-the-way places as we are, you’ll love Bisbee for its hippie charm and fascinating history. It’s also a great example of how a town can be reborn from the ashes of deindustrialization to become a center of culture and creativity. And if nothing else, its mountain setting is a welcome escape from Tucson’s oppressive summer heat.
What’s the most offbeat place you’ve visited?
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I am going to Bisbee at the end of the month. We are doing the mine tour and going to see different places while we are there.Thanks for mentioning different places to see.
Sounds like an excellent trip. Enjoy!
Arizona is a beautiful places. Before the covid I was there with my close friends. we had greate fun there. After the reading your blog I want to visit again, Thanks for sharing.
I think most everything has opened back up, and it’s the perfect time of year to visit Arizona!
Nice! Thank you for sharing.
We hope many more people will discover Bisbee. It’s an amazing place!
I came across your article and enjoyed reading the commentary. I grew up in Bisbee, graduated from Bisbee High School and left to attend college and never went back. The last of my relatives that lived in Bisbee recently passed. My family’s history that started in Bisbee was from my maternal grandparents. My grandmother immigrated from Mexico, married and raised her family in Bisbee, my mother was born in Bisbee along with her many brothers and sisters. I lived there when the mines closed in or around 1975 and the culture of the little town definitely changed but not necessarily for the worse as it brought art and a more laid back attitude. Houses were selling for ridiculously low prices when the mines closed and in hind sight, I wish I had been in a position to purchase a bunch.
I live in Nevada now and still support the sleepy little town in small ways. Our foundation offers grants to graduating high school seniors going into the field of education. I still make it to Bisbee every couple of years and enjoy reading articles about the city.
It has quite a history and is a truly is a delightful place to visit.
That’s such an awesome connection to Bisbee and your foundation sounds likes it’s doing great things. What’s the name of it?
I love this post! My great-grandparents immigrated from Mexico to Bisbee in the early 1900s and were miners there. I’m on a road trip, and I’m planning on visiting Bisbee to learn about my family’s history. Thanks for such an interesting and informative post!
We can’t believe how many people have found our post who have family roots in Bisbee. Not that many people know about it now, but it was such an important city back in the mining days. So excited for you to visit this wonderful town!
I’m a native of Bisbee. I remember when the mine was shutting down they found a large vein of gold on the West side of the pit. It was beautiful to see the sunshine hitting it in the morning. My grandma was scared when hippies moved in next door to her. I told her that I was a hippie and she should give them a chance. Turned out great, they helped out a lot ???? I have to say it’s my favorite place to go.
I’m sure there was a lot of apprehension about the hippies moving in, but it does seem to have turned out well 🙂 It’s one of our favorite places too!
In the early 1900’s my grandfather went from Kentucky to Bisbee to work in the copper mine. In 1908 he returned to Kentucky, got married and took his 17 year old bride back to Bisbee. He worked in the Copper Queen Mine until 1915 when they moved back to Kentucky with their two young sons. My father was born in 1916 in Kentucky. Bisbee was a thriving metropolis when they lived there and when they were back in Kentucky grandmother wrote in her diary about her loneliness “back in the sticks of old Kentucky”. Wages in the copper mine were very good and my grandfather was once asked why he left Arizona. He stated that of the men who started there the same time as he did, only he was left alive. My grandmother died when she was 35 years old of an apparent heart attack. My grandfather often told tales of living in Bisbee, and I hate to admit, we didn’t listen too well. We thought his tales were a product of his imagination and his fondness for reading. Our soninlaw was stationed at nearby Fort Huachucha in 1987 and we went to visit them that summer. While there, our first sightseeing trip was to Bisbee. We took the Copper Queen mine tour and saw first hand the sights we had only seen in the one picture my grandfather had of the interior of the mine. We visited the museum and in the museum library we found a city directory from 1915 and we were able to locate the house where they had lived. In researching some of the area history, I discovered that my grandfather’s “tales” were probably true. Each of the other two times we visited our daughter’s family, we also had to visit Bisbee again. I find it fascinating, to say the least. In 2008 we were in Santa Fe on our way to the Grand Canyon. At breakfast I said to my husband, “It would be a shame to be this close and not go
down to Bisbee.” What are a few hundred extra miles? So we,headed south instead of west. When we got to Bisbee I realized that my grand parents had arrived there in June of 1908. You guessed it, the date now was June 20, 2008. Exactly 100 years later. I really enjoyed your blog of your visit to Bisbee and just had to tell about mine.
That’s a fantastic story about your grandparents. I can only imagine how exciting it was to live during Bisbee’s mining heyday. Like your grandfather said though, it was also incredibly dangerous. I’m glad you had the chance to visit those times and that you were able to connect with his stories.
I took a chance and moved out here to Bisbee and hearing your story makes me even more proud I moved here. Would love to hear some of then crazy stories your grandfather told. I bet they very true.
I live on the other side of the mountain from down town Bisbee and I find it hard wanting to leave the mountain. Very peaceful place, great view and few people. Get out of the city is all I can say.
If anyone is looking for land replay and I will send you info. The person I bought my 10 acres from has two absolutely beautiful spots. One is 160 acres and the other is 100 acres. One looks over the valley and you see Mexico, the Boarder Wall, Sierra Vista and you clearly see the mountains behind Tuscon AZ 90 miles away. The other has a natural trench or a small canyon and it’s a perfect for a park. Both are beautiful spots and very private.
I also lived in Bisbee it was in the late 1950s, it was a very short stay, my dad was between jobs. My uncle owned a bowling alley and my parents worked for him.
That’s an interesting time to have lived there. It looked like that’s when the pit mining started. Bisbee could really use a new bowling alley 🙂
So where you stayed, the Bisbee house of art and mirrors, is actually run by two very dangerous people Zia and dragon. I would be happy to speak more on this. They live and operate an “eco farm” near Bisbee.
https://www.independent.com/2008/11/13/santa-barbara-fugitive-arrested-after-10-years-on-run/
Ryan, being a Bisbee native (1943), I immensely enjoyed reading the commentary and the great photos. With regard to the Copper Queen Hotel, when I was 12 and attending Central School nearby, a handful of us boys snuck out at recess and walked down to the front of the hotel. We recognized Victor Mature and Stephen McNally who were sitting out on the porch relaxing and enjoying the sun. Victor Mature was especially big to us because of his movie “Samson and Delilah”. We all wanted to be Samson. There was another man sitting next to them in a gray business suit and hat reading a newspaper. As we giggled and slowly crouched up the stairway, the man abruptly rose, rattled the newspaper vigorously away from his face and yelled at the top of his lungs; “Get the hell away from here!” Our hearts were pounding and we scampered in all directions. The man burst out howling in laughter. The movie being filmed in 1955 was “Violent Saturday” and when we saw the movie at the Lyric Theater upon its release, we learned that the man who had yelled at us was Lee Marvin. A fond memory of growing up in Bisbee.
That is a fantastic Bisbee story! I’d also be terrified if Lee Marvin was yelling at me.
Haha, Just watched that film. A funny Bisbee story is when I was working at the Copper Queen hotel as a host person in the restaurant. One morning I had Julia Roberts and Kiefer Sutherland come inside (filming Young Guns 2 in town) and I sat them down at our best view table looking at the church next door. Well the somewhat arrogant Chef, who was married to the Hotel owners daughter, came out from the kitchen and kneeled at their table in brief conversation. I couldn’t help chuckling/laughing and Keifer looked over at me and started laughing, too. We were both laughing at my douche boss- great memory.
We came to Phoenix for my son’s president weekend basketball tournament, when I researched where to go sightseeing afterwards the first pick was Bisbee:) I know nothing about it, maybe just because of the name of the town. I plan to drive today( a Tuesday), I spent 5 minutes of googling and found your writing, it confirmed my decision to go. But I saw you mentioned weekday is not recommended:( Weekday( especially during lockdown) is not a good idea at all?
All of the restaurants should be open, but some of the galleries and tourist shops might not be. I can’t say what it’ll be like with the lockdown, but other readers have said that things have opened up. Check the facebook page of any place you’re thinking about going (like the museums) beforehand.
This was a great read! Im from Tucson and love to drive down to Bisbee. Many years ago my father (Frank Shovan) would play music at big Mama’s pizza on the weekends. I remember there was a man named that went by “shorty” that lived down there that would play the old time country with my dad. He (my father Frank) put on many functions down there and all over AZ.. those were some of the best child hood memory’s.. Frank Shovan just passed away this last November from cancer, and after going through the old VHS tapes it brought back the good old days at big Mama’s pizza.. but I’ll never forget the good times we had in Bisbee!
Thanks! Sounds like you had a pretty great time in Bisbee. We would have loved to see the town in its earlier years. You have such wonderful memories of it.
Very nice piece on Bisbee. As a Warren resident, I’d have liked to have seen a little more on our neighborhood, which includes the 111 year-old Warren Ballpark and some incredibly beautiful homes. There is actually too much to see and do in one visit, so here’s an invitation to come back. There’s Bakerville, Warren, the Evergreen Cemetery, all of vanished Bisbee (Lowell) Naco (including Camp Naco) and a much more extensive history to learn about – a history that is still being studied and interpreted today.
We agree completely! There’s too much to do in one visit and we would have loved to spend a few more days or even a week in the Bisbee area. We slept at an Airbnb in Warren, but didn’t get the chance to explore the area around in much. Camp Naco looks right up our alley though and we’d love to explore some of the back roads through the hills surrounding Bisbee.
I was born and raised in Bisbee. Lived on Brewery Gulch. The happiest times of my life were in Bisbee. I lived 19 years there born in 1946. It was a wonderful town full of life and respectful people. Hard working Fathers and stay at home Mothers. Wish I could’ve raised my children in the same environment. We moved to Tucson before the mine closed but visited relatives often. I still hold Bisbee close to my heart and we visit once a year now since we live so far away. Still have relatives and special friends that live there. Enjoyed your article only because of the pictures and places you mentioned. You only glossed over the best of Bisbee in 20’s through the 80’s. Hippies have kept Bisbee alive and I’m thankful for that. Nachos Tacos were the best.
So happy the article was able to bring back fond memories for you and I’m glad you had such a happy childhood there in the 50’s and early 60’s. Bisbee’s museums didn’t cover post WWII history as well as the 19th and early 20th century, so our main take away was that copper prices dipped following the war and mining became much less profitable. A similar fate was met by Butte, a major copper mining city near our hometown that has a lot in common with Bisbee. Butte has struggled for fifty years now, both with the loss of mining jobs and delays in environmental cleanup that have made sections of the city uninhabitable, but we are hoping that in the coming decade it will have a resurgence like Bisbee’s.
Hi Ryan, Great writing. I love Bisbee and hope to visit this summer. I noticed in one of your comments you mentioned towns in New Mexico worth exploring. I spent a great deal of time last summer in Santa Fe during the Covid lockdown. I fell in love with the city, even in its partially closed state. What other towns would you recommend in NM?
Glad to hear that you found an interesting place to hole up during the lockdown – we also really liked Santa Fe (especially the crazy Meow Wolf art experience). We definitely would suggest Taos. It’s retained an artistic vibe without being overly commercialized like some parts of Santa Fe and has fascinating history at the pueblo. The scenery is spectacular too; we camped for a few nights halfway between Taos and Angel Fire at about 9,000 ft of elevation. We’ve heard good things about Los Alamos, both for its nuclear history and Bandelier National Monument nearby. We always had planned to go down to White Sands, which is now a national park, for some sand sledding. Albuquerque gets a bad rap, but it was actually the destination for the road trip that took us through Bisbee. Jen and her fellow Peace Corps Rwanda Volunteers wanted to have their six year reunion in an off-the-beaten path city and chose Albuquerque. Like everywhere else in NM it has a lots of history, the towering Sandia Mountains are just outside the city (and you can take a cable car to the summit), and there’s a fun college town vibe near the University of New Mexico.
Great article. I grew up in Bisbee and love reading fun articles about it. Such a quirky little town but always proud to say I am from there and get to share it with other people. Don’t forget to mention the Warren Ballpark, one of the oldest and great baseball history.
I would also be proud to say I’m from Bisbee 🙂 Warren Ballpark looks really cool and it was just a few blocks down the road from our Airbnb. Interesting history too with the unionizing miners being held there in 1917 before getting deported to Mexico.
I was interested in the article until it went environmental. Maybe I shouldn’t be, but I get a bit offended by these comments, especially in an article with the main theme of history and things to do in Bisbee. Just a respectful suggestion when writing these articles. Obviously, we all need copper and other metals. It helped us win wars and helped us succeed and not rely as heavily on other countries with respect to our GDP, national security and overall lifestyle.
A world without extracted natural resources is a return to the stone age!
I believe the only criticism I made of mining was in regards to the Lavender Pit. Open pit mining is particularly destructive and was used when Bisbee’s larger copper deposits were depleted. We do need metals, but retrieving them from low-grade ore is probably not the best way to do it. The pit didn’t even provide that many jobs compared to the underground mining operations.
My my it’s amazing how the earth is so secondary in the importance of its care.
Humans have no regard for proper extraction of anything from the depletion of the ocean’s fish, to dumping out toxic air pollution, over extraction of its minerals without replacing the fill, to the over consumption of its abusively fat people.
So we continue to choke on our own man made pollution from greed. We have really done a fine job haven’t we!
In the early ninties I participated in the Scottsdale mall art show with several of my sculptures, At that time I was touring doing art shows in the southwest looking for some place to create a sculpture park. I fell in love with Santa Fe because of the art secene there so I hauled two loads of sculptures to Santa Fe hoping that I would be accepted by the art community. BUT! I was run out of town and black balled. Tommy Hicks at Shadony sculpture park told me to get the hell out of Santa Fe and go back to Seattle where I belonged. After spending a summer there I stashed one load of my sculptures at the school for the deaf and returned back to the northwest. I ended up finding my piece of heaven along the mountain Hwy to mount Rainier and put together a four acre sculpture park titled Recycled Spirits of Iron. After four years I returned backed to the school of the deaf in Santa Fe and brought home my rusty creations . At the time I was doing the Scottsdale art show I was approached by someone from Bissbee telling me I should consider Bissbe as a place to create my park. Now that I am 70 years of age I hope to visit Bissbe to see what I missed out on I am not saying my park in the northwest was not successfull but I yearned to be amoungst like minded artist. For over twenty years I have made America great with meeting people from all over the world who visited my park.
We visited Santa Fe on the same road trip that took us through Bisbee and it was clear that their arts scene is probably not as accepting of unorthodox ideas. Well that’s not entirely true, they have Meow Wolf, but that was created in reaction to its founders being shunned by Santa Fe’s mainstream. Bisbee is a wonderful place and I’m sure your sculpture park would have been perfect there, but it sounds like you did alright for yourself in the Pacific Northwest, which is an area we also have a lot of love for.
Dear Mr Klennert,
I read this article and then scrolled down to read comments. What a wonderful surprise to see your response there! You see, my husband and I live in Puyallup WA and although we have never been to Bisbee, we frequent your little piece of heaven at least once, sometimes twice a year. Picnic lunch in tow, we wander through your amazing artwork while my husband strikes poses lying under the giant spider and stands posing proudly in front of one of your giant steeds. We have brought many friends and family members to enjoy your artwork and once, we watched in wonder you as you created a giant seahorse. I worked in downtown Puyallup, at the US Bank on the corner of Pioneer and Meridian. I made a point of giving directions to our building by mentioning the giant iron fish made of horseshoes out front. Just as I moved forward in my career from banker to Realtor, the fish has been moved on to its new home down the street. I still find myself smiling and quash my urge to wave as I pass it on Pioneer. Your art touches people and sparks their imagination. I can’t help but feel a bit selfish and somewhat happy in your not settling in an area we have never been to because we never could have shared your artwork in the peaceful setting it is in, with the people we love and care about! Destiny brought you to the the Great Northwest and we are grateful that our paths crossed. Thank you, stay safe and God bless. Admirers, Lisa (and James) Bradley
So glad you both found yourselves checking out Bisbee! We’ll definitely get over to Recycled Spirits of Iron next time we’re in that part of Washington.
From one black balled artist to another, come on down Dan!
I’ve only been living in Bisbee since February 9 and I do enjoy a leisurely conversation while out and about town. I’ve met many fine and friendly folks while hunting for the rental I now call home. Come see what is!
I’ll meet ya and give you a tour if you want. Damiian
Hello there! I was curious as to the rental you mentioned… I’m moving back to the area, after being in the City for surgery & recovery, and was wanting to know the best way to find a rental in Bisbee. Any advice you have will be appreciated ????
Not sure on the best way to find a rental there. We just used Airbnb, and there’s quite a few rentals in Bisbee and nearby Warren. I wouldn’t recommend the place we stayed for surgery recovery as it’s a busy house most of the time. Airbnb prices are up from when we visited, but it looks like there are also more options.
My wife and I moved here last month and absolutely love it here. The weather is beautiful the people are nice and there is a lot to do and see. 🙂
That’s awesome! We visited in August and it was such a relief after the heat in Tucson. Glad you’re enjoying the new home there!
Well…pussycat gelato seems to have been forgotten in the mix, Right on main Street.
We are never ones to pass up gelato, so this was a serious oversight on our part. Thanks for pointing it out! If we even get back down to Bisbee, we’ll definitely check it out.
I was baptized in St. Patrick’s and so we’re my two children. Left Bisbee in 1983. Glad to see it doing well. Great place to live and visit
We had an amazing time there. Certainly one of the best towns in Arizona.
Damn! Wish I’d of known about Bisbee back in the 60’s when I much more —-well—- much more ????
Same! We loved what it is now, but it would have been great to see the town in all of its hippie weirdness.
Except that in the 60s, Bisbee was still a solidly mining town. The hippies didn’t really arrive until after them mine closed in the late 70s.
Fair point, the Lavender Pit was operating until 1974 and I assume it took several years for the hippies to arrive. So the previous poster would have enjoyed the 1980s in Bisbee?
My husband and I moved to Bisbee last summer. We absolutely love it here! The review of Tacho’s Tacos was right on! They had the best and least expensive Mexican food in town. Unfortunately, the new minimum wage forced them to close on January 1, 2020. We were very disappointed! One good thing about Bisbee is that no one should feel out of place or weird, because everyone else is weird! The weirdness is fun!
We’re so disappointed to hear that Tacho’s Tacos closed. They were so cheap and so good! We totally agree that no one should feel out of place in Bisbee.
Hi, I’m in the market for a home and think I have narrowed the search down to 3 modest homes to look at. Any advice for a potential bisbee(an)?
We really can’t say anything authoritative on Bisbee’s housing market since we were only there for a short time. However, it seems like you might find some less expensive units in South Bisbee. It’s only a few miles away, but it would mean you’d need to drive and park in town. One of the best things about Bisbee is how walkable it is, at least if you can handle all the stair climbing.
Yea…Bisbee has been “found” in the current market as of 2021. Its amazing what these hillside 1 bedroom old mining houses with no parking in the old city section go for. 200-300k when they used to be 100-150k max. It’s true the area of Warren is slightly cheaper or even whats known as Huachuca Terrace further south…but its $$$ now.
The housing market is incredibly distorted just about everywhere right now, definitely in our home state of Montana. Good to know that Huachuca Terrace isn’t as pricey. We went over there a couple of times during our visit for Tacho’s tacos (which is closed now) – not too bad of a drive to get to Bisbee.
I love Bisbee I’m from Douglas Az and we would often take drives to Bisbee to shop and have dinner.
That’s awesome! We had hoped to stop in Douglas and have a drink at the Gadsden Hotel, but didn’t have the time in our itinerary.
Lived in Bisbee back in the 70s. Raised my kids there. Glad to see St Elmo’s is still rocking!
St. Elmo’s is doing great! I’m guessing it hasn’t changed much in the past couple of decades. Had a great time there!
Sorry to say St.Elmos has been closed since the start of the pandemic and so far has no plans to reopen as of yet.
That’s terrible news! It’s such an institution. We’ve been losing a lot of businesses to the pandemic up in Montana too and are really hoping that things turn around next year.
St. Elmo’s is open again
That’s good to hear, I think. Looks like Bisbee only has a dozen or so cases at this time. It’s good to see things opening back up as long as everyone stays safe.
Hi! It was so fun to come upon this article where you describe my Airbnb, The Bisbee House of Art and Mirrors but not by name. Thank you. I wish I’d gotten to meet you! My partner, Dragon Sundancer did many of the erotic paintings, others are by local artists. Restaurants are mostly open again and it’s still fun to walk around. We wear masks and have very few cases.
Hi Soleil, so glad you found our post! You have such an interesting Airbnb and we loved our stay at the Bisbee House of Art and Mirrors – we couldn’t have asked for a better place to launch our Bisbee trip. Good to hear that you’re doing okay with Covid cases and are starting to get back to normal. We’re up in Montana and masking wearing isn’t as good as it could be here. Our cases shot up during the summer tourist season after we had some of the lowest numbers in the country back in May.
Almost everything closed in Bisbee June 2020 COVID 19. PLEASE stay home until it’s safe.
Thanks for the current info! We agree that nobody should be traveling much right now. We were fortunate to visit Bisbee a couple years ago, and we hope this post will help people plan trips there in the future, when it’s safe.
Are things still closed? We just made reservations for early November.
Back in July a local mentioned that most places were open. You should check the websites for any attractions you’re visiting though, to confirm that they’re open.
Stay away. Tourists suck. How does that sound. Bisbee is overrun and stupid with tourists. Drunk ones mostly. The locals can’t afford to live unless you come from California rich. It’s a shithole. Stay away.
We get that, we’ve seen the same thing in Montana. But at the same time, tourism is critical to the local economy. With no tourists, how do you keep all the locals employed?
Cool place. I love the vibe and your photos.
Thanks! It’s a great spot to explore if you like photography. The deep red mountains and the colorful buildings make for some really interesting shots.
Browsing the whole article and very much entertained. Thank you for making me feel like that. Keep it up!
Glad Bisbee brought you some joy! We certainly loved it!
What an interesting place, I love all the art, it makes the town so colorful and unique
It’s so weird to come upon these little artist communities in places you’d never expect them. The desolation (and beauty) of the desert seems to inspire them.
Looks like such a fun and vibrant town with so much to do and see!
So fun, and it’s even better if you visit on the weekend when they have all their events going!
This is so cool! I love visiting quirky US towns, so adding Bisbee to my bucket list for when I make it to Arizona. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I think Arizona might have more cool and quirky towns than any other state. There are the obvious ones like Sedona, but also Jerome, Bisbee, Globe, Greer, and Prescott.
-puts it in the list- Thank you very much! This looks like a really interesting trip! I love quirky US towns!
Glad we could add to the list! There are so many interesting little towns in Arizona and New Mexico, you could put together a road trip of just them!
I can’t believe that there’s so much to do in Bisbee! I’ve heard of it before, but had never really looked into visiting. This is great. I’d especially like to do the Mine tour!
We’re really disappointed that we didn’t get to do the mine tour; it’s so cool that they take you underground for it. You should definitely visit Bisbee if you’re going through southern Arizona or taking a trip to Tucson.
Sounds like a fun, funky town to visit! I’ve never heard of Bisbee before, except for a mention in the Calexico song “Bisbee Blue”. Have you heard it? Looking back through the lyrics again the song makes more sense after reading your post. I guess Bisbee Blue refers to the turqoiuse that was mined there. Fascinating! Now I want to visit the town even more ☺️
Hadn’t heard the Calexico song, but I looked up the lyrics now and it’s a fitting tribute to the town with the lines about the copper crews. There’s a sadness to the song, but I see hope in reborn towns like Bisbee. The population is smaller, the jobs more dispersed, but the people are proud and resilient. I hope you make it there soon.
What an interesting place. I would definitely want to see the vintage trailer court!
Reading about the Shady Dell Trailer Court on Atlas Obscura was one of the first things that drew us to Bisbee!
I have never heard of Bisbee but sounds like such a fun spot! It looks super funky and charming. I love the street art and the Lavender Pit looks pretty epic. Adding it to the list for when we eventually do our USA road trip!
Such a cool place! We’ve heard Douglas, Arizona (another border town nearby) is also worth checking out and if you’re further north in the state, Jerome has a similar ‘mining town turned artist community’ vibe. Arizona is one of the best places for road tripping!
Wow! I need to go there!
You really should! It’s the perfect road trip stop!
I love checking out the downtown areas of little towns! This looks like such a cool place to visit! :]
We just couldn’t believe how much was packed into Bisbee’s downtown (it’s only a few blocks long). But you could easily spend a few days exploring the shops and galleries. There are so many places we didn’t get to chance to eat at too!
It’s a shame your leftist agenda overshadowed the good content and article you have here. If I had written it in a right-leaning sort of way would you have enjoyed it? You wouldn’t. And I didn’t yours. Thanks for the content but not the swing. There are plenty of people out there who don’t share your views. (They voted and won.) If you can write without politics maybe we all can enjoy your great writing. Just a thought!
We’re happy to hear that you liked the content of the article and hope you get the chance to visit Bisbee someday. As far as towns in Arizona go though, Bisbee is fairly liberal. The mayor once described it as a blue dot in a sea of red. You might find a few art galleries skewering the president and a few less MAGA caps there. It’s a tolerant little town though and they welcome visitors of all political persuasions.
Good answer for that guy, you are an Exelent writer.
Hear hear!
I totally agree. Sad
No one’s forcing you to read his article. And his opinions are part of his writing. Regardless, Bisbee is a blue dot in a sea of red. And its important to point out it’s one of the most friendly LGBTQ communities in Arizona. Has the highest concentration of LGBTQ families in the state and was the first city in Arizona to legalize same-sex unions. So yea…Bisbee is leftist and thats what you should prepare for if you visit.
I get the feeling the commenter wasn’t actually intending to visit Bisbee or any town like it and just wanted to make a statement 🙂
Bisbee is a left leaning town, why wouldn’t the article have a “leftist agenda” to accurately describe it?